The Steens Mountain Wilderness: 14th Anniversary

Fourteen years ago today, the Steens Mountain Wilderness was signed into law by President Clinton.

We celebrate today’s anniversary because this historic act permanently protected 170,000 acres of pristine wildlands around the crown jewel of southeast Oregon, Steens Mountain. And while the designation of Oregon’s fourth largest Wilderness area was a feat unto itself, it’s especially noteworthy that grazing is banned on 100,000 of the wilderness - making it the first congressionally designated cow-free Wilderness in the country!

Steens Mountain is a geologist’s playground with over 70 different layers of lava flows that erupted some 16 million years ago. Ice Age glaciers carved four main canyons into the area: Kiger Gorge, Big Indian Gorge, Little Blitzen Gorge, and Wildhorse Canyon. And just to the east of Steens Mountain lies the Alvord Desert – one of the more unique landscapes that you’ll ever see in Oregon.

The first time I visited the Steens Mountain Wilderness was in September 2009. The aspen were the perfect bright shade of yellow, (like you’d see on a postcard) and the canyons were unlike anything I’d ever seen before – deep and wide, making me feel like I was looking at the largest painting ever created.
From near the summit, we hiked down into Wildhorse Canyon to camp near Wildhorse Lake. Rather quickly, we realized that something about this place (maybe the lack of trees, maybe the insanely beautiful scenery) was completely throwing off our depth perception. A small lake appeared to be a couple hundred yards away, but after 45 minutes of hiking toward it through sagebrush, we weren’t even halfway there.

For the next couple days, the canyon was all ours. It remains one of the quietest places I’ve ever visited. During the day, we were mesmerized by the seemingly endless areas to explore – all just within this one gorge. But at night, our focus was drawn skyward. I'm not sure if I've ever seen more stars in my entire life!

Back in June of this year, while revisiting the Steens, I felt like I was given the chance to get to know an old friend better. Snow still had the summit road closed, but we were able to explore the lower, western end of the Wilderness. Specifically, we hiked along the Donner und Blitzen River, a designated reserve for redband trout. And while “Donner und Blitzen und Mosquitoes” might be more accurate, I haven’t seen many more beautiful river canyons in my life. Yet another secret gem in a place that seems full of them.

If you’re heading out to the Steens, plan to spend at least a few days there. And if you need a little sustenance to fuel all your explorations, I’d highly recommend the milkshakes at Fields Station! The combination of sugar and dairy has never tasted so good.

 

Photo Credits
Jonathan Jelen