Waldo Lake and the forests and trails all around it is one of my “happy places.” Every summer, I love to paddle and swim in the clear, deep blue water and pick huckleberries for camp breakfast. I’ve hiked through the young forest on the north side of the lake, recovering slowly from the Charlton Fire that severely burned the high-elevation area. And I included the Black Creek trail, leading from the west side of the Waldo Lake Wilderness through diverse forests to the edge of the lake, in my ancient forest hiking guide. 

"Paddling on Waldo Lake"
The clear waters of Waldo Lake make for amazing paddling and swimming.

I’m not the only one. The natural beauty and diversity of the area, and relative accessibility from major roads and nearby communities has made Waldo Lake and its watershed a popular (and booming) recreation destination – from mountain biking to backpacking to paddling.

Initial protection efforts for the area were driven by the urge to safeguard the unique and pristine waters of Waldo Lake, but efforts to protect the wild and diverse forests surrounding the lake were also active. The Waldo Lake Wilderness was established in 1984, and subsequent codifications of the Roadless Rule ensured even more wild lands in this spectacular landscape had protections from logging and road building – though much had already fragmented the surrounding Willamette National Forest. The North Fork Middle Fork Willamette River – from its source on the north end of Waldo Lake downstream 42 miles – was designated as a Wild & Scenic River in 1988. Superlatives abound. 

"Map of Cedar Creek Fire and unroaded or Wilderness lands" Fire has been no stranger in this rugged and diverse landscape. Historic fires shaped the high-elevation subalpine forests around Waldo Lake and the moist Douglas-fir, hemlock, and cedar forests downstream in the North Fork Middle Fork and Salt Creek watersheds for millennia. In recent years, the Warner Creek Fire burned the area around Bunchgrass Ridge in 1991 (sparking a protest and movement against post-fire logging), the 1996 Charlton Fire burned the north side of Waldo Lake, and several other small lightening-caused fires have burned in patches all around. These fires left natural legacies behind – charred snags, down logs, and remnant living trees – to form the base for rebuilding soil, wildlife habitat, and the next forest generation. 

When a lightning strike started a fire on Koch Mountain on August 1, 2022, near the headwaters of Black Creek on the west side of the lake, of course I paid attention. On August 6, I watched smoke rise from where I camped with my family, and wondered what would happen to some of my favorite places and trails. 

"North end of Waldo Lake and Charlton Fire"
The north end of Waldo Lake and the scar of the Charlton Fire, reburned by the Cedar Creek Fire.

The fire burned in the steep terrain on the edge of the Wilderness for a few weeks. Firefighters were cautious in the steep terrain, and sensitive to the wild landscape and ecosystem. The fire  might well have fizzled out without reaching the lake or threatening nearby Oakridge were it not for a strong wind event at the peak of the hot, dry summer, which drove the fire north and east across the old Charlton burn, then west towards town – encompassing the Warner Creek fire area as well. In the end, the Cedar Creek fire impacted 127,000 acres, (including areas intentionally burned by firefighters to control the fire’s spread).

I didn’t get a chance to see the fire’s aftermath until nearly a year later. In July, I arranged a flight with LightHawk – a non-profit organization that pairs volunteer pilots with conservation groups – and my colleague Tim Ingalsbee with FUSEE (Firefighters United for Safety, Ethics, and Ecology). 

Tim is hardly a stranger to this landscape. He was one of the protesters who stopped planned post-fire logging in the Warner Creek Fire area, and he has a long history of activism promoting natural fire recovery and sound fire policy. He was interested to see the effects of this fire on the Warner Creek area so near and dear to his heart.  

Michael Sherman with Spring Fed Media also joined us to document the flight. (See linked videos below)

What we saw was emotional. On the way, we flew over the Holiday Farm Fire area in the McKenzie watershed. Much of that fire burned over private industrial timber lands, where young plantations burned fast and hot, and where any burned trees still standing were logged as soon as possible. The landscape was stark – while fire impacts from this 2020 fire are quite visible, the impacts of industrial clearcutting and roads on the landscape takes it to a new level. 

"Private land above the McKenzie River"
Private land, with roads and clearcuts, above the McKenzie River in the Holiday Farm Fire area.

Once over the Willamette National Forest and the fresher Cedar Creek Fire, emotions shifted to the places I knew and loved. There was the outlet of the North Fork Middle Fork River, and the Charlton Fire – many of the legacies from 25 years ago turned to ash and the small recovering trees largely gone. There was the North Waldo Campground, where I started my first solo backpack trip in 2021 – with many burned trees but still clear blue water. And there, the Black Creek Canyon – a clear mix of fire severity, even where the fire burned for weeks, old-growth trees still green and standing tall. Over Bunchgrass Ridge, where the Warner Creek Fire burned, some of the young trees – regrowing for the past 20 years – with nothing left but their small trunks, while snags from the first fire still stand sentinel for this next round of regrowth. 

As we flew toward Oakridge, smoke from the recently-started Bedrock Fire in a nearby drainage was smothering the low-elevation hills and obscuring our view. 

"Burned trees, snags, and down logs in the Cedar Creek Fire"
Burned trees, snags, and down logs are important legacy structures for soil and wildlife.

A few months later, I finally had the chance to drive up into part of the fire area to get a closer view. The story on the ground was also one of a mix of burn severity and impact. Some areas were completely blackened – thin-barked mountain hemlock and fir trees were but standing husks, old snags and down logs converted to charcoal to feed the soil. There were also plenty of green patches that the fire didn’t touch, providing seed sources and shade for nearby burned areas. 

I also saw up-close what firefighting efforts can do on the ground and the limits to human intervention and prediction in these forces of nature: swaths of forest bulldozed as a fire line – sometimes clearly adjacent to the fire (or intentionally burned to reduce fuels – a common tactic) but others surrounded by green where the fire didn’t touch. Unfortunately, these activities left unnatural scars on the landscape.

The Willamette National Forest is not planning a massive post-fire logging operation in the Cedar Creek fire area. But some roadside tree removal is 

"Trees burned along roadside in Cedar Creek Fire"
Some burned old-growth trees close to roads may be in danger of being cut as “hazard trees”.

proposed, and I made note of burned old-growth trees – legacies for the next generation of forest – that might be in the path of such logging. We’ll be watching proposals here carefully, urging the Forest Service to only do what is necessary, and to preserve forest legacies across this landscape. 

What I saw from the air and the ground affirmed what I know about fire ecology from years of study and observation. Standing dead and downed trees are hanging on to the majority of the carbon they stored over many years, fresh growth is already coming back to become forage for deer and elk, birds and other wildlife are still using the burned areas, and there is added diversity in vegetation and forest structures.

What I saw also affirmed what I know about the importance of public lands. In the protected areas surrounding Waldo Lake, and within the bounds of Willamette National Forest, there is an opportunity for natural recovery of this burned landscape – standing in stark contrast to the private industrial lands where legacies were stripped away to move forward with another tree crop. 

We can’t log our way out of fires like this. We can’t even fight our way out of fires. We’ve seen again and again that fuel breaks and fire lines in the backcountry can’t stop wind-driven fire events. What we can do is address climate change and the conditions that drive hotter, dryer summers, stress native vegetation, and lead to bigger, more severe fires. 

We can also prepare our communities for the reality of climate-driven fires, investing in safe shelters and reducing the chances of home ignitions through home hardening and reducing fuels close to homes.  As the state moves forwards with landscape level strategies for addressing fire risk, funding needs to be directed to real solutions – for the climate and for communities.

Watch four short videos about the Cedar Creek Fire and our overflight 

A 22-square-mile clearcut.

That’s what I saw when I looked out the window of the small plane I was riding in, a Lighthawk-sponsored flight over the private logging lands bordering the Willamette National Forest. I didn’t know the exact size at the time; all I could do was react to the scale of logging. In my two decades doing conservation work in Oregon, I’d never seen such a large landscape denuded of trees.

Little did I know, this was not even the largest clearcut in Oregon. But more on that later.

After sharing my photos from the flight, Oregon Wild’s resident GIS and mapping expert Erik Fernandez found the clearcut on mapping and satellite tools and outlined its full size: 14,300 contiguous acres, 8 miles across at its largest point, right above the McKenzie River.

The clearcut is owned, almost entirely, by Campbell Global, a timberland investing group acquired by JP Morgan in 2021. Ironically, the acquisition was touted in their press release as a green investment – that the forestlands would be managed with an eye toward carbon sequestration, biodiversity, and sustainable forestry.

That 22 square mile clearcut, mostly hidden in the hills where most people would never see it, tells quite a different story than the one JP Morgan told on the sustainability pages of their website. 85% of the carbon stored by trees is lost when they are logged and processed, not to mention the damage to soil, plant species, wildlife habitat, drinking water, and more. This clearcut will be replanted as a tree farm, sprayed with pesticides, and logged again in just a few short decades, never allowed to become a true forest again.

Now for the big news: When searching for the clearcut I’d seen from the air, the one we thought was the largest in Oregon, Erik found another, even larger one. 

At a staggering 42 square miles, this clearcut is nestled into the hills around the North Umpqua River. 

It is roughly the same size as the City of Eugene. Unlike JP Morgan’s clearcut, this one has a variety of owners, including Roseburg Forest Products, Mount Scott Holdings, and Weyerhaeuser. 

So, why are these clearcuts allowed to be so big?

While Oregon’s Forest Practices Act limits clearcuts to 120 acres, and now offers some protections for streams and headwaters, most of those rules get thrown out the window when there is a disturbance – in this case, the 2020 wildfires. While you can clearly see that vast tracts of forest survived those fires, logging companies (and Wall Street investment firms) used the aftermath of the 2020 wildfires to clearcut with abandon, stringing together cuts with areas that had been logged before the fires to create massive areas denuded of trees.

@oregonwildconservation Oregon’s largest clearcut is the same size as its 3rd largest city, Eugene. We were able to map these clear cuts thanks to our GIS Expert, Erik. These two cuts lie just out of the public’s view about the hillside near the McKenzie River and The North Umpqua River. Our goal is to bring attention to these and other clear cuts so that the public knows what may be affecting their environment and water. For updates on Oregon’s forest and water policies, sign up for alerts. Link in our bio! #logging #clearcut #oregon #pnw #gis #mapping #conservation #forests #climateaction #pnwlife #optoutside #environment ♬ Autumn Leaves – Timothy Cole

These clearcuts also illustrated a stark difference I saw from my Lighthawk flight: public vs private industrial lands. While the private tree farms had been liquidated, living and dead trees still stood across the Willamette National Forest. In these areas, there is thriving habitat for certain plants and animals that rely on post-fire landscapes to survive. And the unlogged areas will also grow back into a healthier and more diverse forest than the re-planted monoculture on adjoining private lands. The soil will be stabilized by the roots of living trees, snags, and the lush undergrowth that returns to an open-canopy forest. Lastly, carbon stored in both the living and dead trees on our public lands will stay on the landscape for decades, helping us fight climate change.

While I was horrified by the extent of greed I saw from my flight, and saddened by some of the special places that the 2020 fires had changed, I was also thankful for our public lands where the forest – in all its natural and wonderful diversity – remains.

On a cold foggy recent day, Casey Kulla and I drove up to Unit 1 of the Bureau of Land Management’s Lookout Below logging sale within the Panther Creek project area. The scene was a stunning rebuke to those who insist that clearcutting no longer occurs on federal public lands. In fact, at 150 acres, this “regeneration harvest” unit was larger than the maximum allowable size for private industrial clearcuts (which happen regularly on surrounding lands).

But the clearcutting was only part of the tragedy of this once-forest.

Accessed by a road long-gated to public use, High Heaven Road winds out of McMinnville into the checkerboard of rural properties, industrial timber lands, and federal forests managed by the Bureau of Land Management that cover the eastern flanks of the Coast Range. Trails used by local hunters, hikers, and foragers wind through the woods nearby.

When the BLM proposed the Panther Creek project in late 2018, Oregon Wild commented and raised concerns over the aggressive logging’s impacts on streams, natural forest structure, wildlife, and the climate. We noted that mature forests in this area are rare, while young replanted plantations are in abundance. The agency did not alter their project in response, and eventually authorized 800 acres of logging within what the BLM calls their “harvest land base” and within riparian reserves (areas supposedly designated to protect streams and wetlands from industrial logging). Over 400 acres of that is so-called “regeneration harvest” (aka, clearcutting) of forest stands up to 114 years old, in addition to commercial thinning in plantations.

In the timber sale plan, only 13% of the roughly 60-year-old plantation forest was to be retained, mostly in clumps, in the unit. The area was logged and replanted last year, but as this winter’s storms hit, many of the trees that remained in these clumps, called “leave islands,” were toppled by the wind. They had been weakened from years of growing in an overcrowded plantation, were top-heavy, and brutally exposed to the elements after the surrounding hillslope was clearcut in this sale.

Wind storms are difficult to predict but not unexpected in the Coast Range, and this blow-down event (adding insult to injury in this clearcut forest landscape) may have been avoided by careful thinning of the forest or retaining more trees scattered in the logging area instead of clearcutting. The BLM chose to pursue this more aggressive logging approach over thinning in order to meet the timber harvest quota set by its management plan, despite the added negative ecological impacts. This drive for production has led to this forest missing even more of the carbon storing, wildlife habitat providing, water filtering trees the BLM said would be retained.

As the BLM continues to plan and implement timber sales that target mature forests with aggressive methods, Oregon Wild and our partners are working to highlight the flagrant violation of President Biden’s Executive Order issued last April which called on federal agencies- including the BLM – to protect mature and old growth forests amid mounting scientific evidence of the importance of these forests for our climate. 

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